Your butt depends on it! The configuration of the idler arm is visible as well as the new brake hose mounting hole. Is your F100 solid front axle all over the road? The holes for the brake hoses were the first step of the conversion, and took several hours to cut. In order to make sure all the later components fit in exactly the right place, once the donor suspension was disassembled, templates were made out of manila file folders indicating the location of all mounting holes from the donor frame rails. The factory welds on the shock brackets were cut free with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel. The truck decided to fight me all the way too. I called up Andrew over at Jaguar Specialties and he walked me through the process. I do admit that a sway bar may fix sway without too much loss in straight line ride quality whereas the stiffer torsion bars may provide a stiff ride and the same sway.
Heck, I sometimes have trouble remembering details of what I did in the past. The stock bias 4 ply 15 and 6 ply 16 inch bias tires had a much stiffer sidewall. I used early classic dropped spindles on mine then replaced the rear end with a 72 giving me 5on 5 bolt pattern. The following photo is marked showing the old and new locations. It would be far more convenient with the engine out of the way.
The torsion bars ride like a couch. This is why I am a believer in complete chassis swaps. These holes are half round and half hex to prevent the hose from rotating. There are other and probably easier ways to mount the hoses, including the use of stainless flex hoses instead. Then since the front suspension is narrowed, you have to use a custom steering rack, and a custom swaybar. I love my ride, I just need the swaying tampered down a bit in the curves. The rest were already there.
I simply used these holes and attached the brackets with grade 8 bolts. At the time this wasn't an option. Chrysler used the set-up for a decade after that, and they ride pretty well. I would hate to load in the power and lose a wheel going over the Vincent Thomas bridge in sap Pedro. You see, this F100 is my daily driver. I will never understand why no one ever adapted a sway bar for these T Bar trucks. Sorry no help on the photo question.
As for the rear, they handle pretty damn well too. It will look similar to that on your torsion bar lower arm. I was really new to welding this was my first time so I practiced laying a few beads on other pieces first, then dived right into the finish welds on the crossmember. Sorry, didn't know you already decided on that. The original shock mount bolt holes are the perfect template to work from. It uses a-arms in the rear, which really do have some benefit to handling since the anti-squat doesn't change.
It rides like a cloud now, but I will trade some of the cush away if it helps the cornering. If it were me, and it was , look at qualty disk brake conversion kits before starting. What rack unit did you end up using? But it only kicks in when hauling a load. Please post or contact us with any questions. It'll bottom out on the bumpstops when you hit bad bumps, and it also takes a lot of travel out of the shocks, but it'll get the job done until you can get some spindles and a disc brake kit.
Driver's side in stock configuration with the new brake hose mounting hole. Chrysler used the set-up for a decade after that, and they ride pretty well. I also concurr re the purchase of a good conversion kit. The 60 and 75 front frame dimension is basically the same. But alas, it came out. An early survey suggested several valid candidates.
Thanks for the detailed info, el P. I can write more about these for anyone who is interested. Thanks again for the link, Greg Mead Hey Funky, Well good things come to those that wait. And it goes on and on. I did not want any 1960 steering components to remain, due to high cost and lesser strength. Initially the rear torsion bar crossmember was left in place. That also gets you the disk brakes and 5-lug.