Please be sure to test all of your wires with a digital multimeter before making any connections. Whenever you take the starter solenoid apart to replace the contacts, make sure that the ball bearing remains in the hole in the end of the clutch assembly. If it is beyond the +or- 3 degrees have them adjust it back to spec's. The solenoid consists of a steel plunger that is pulled into an electro-magnetic coil, that is energized by the ignition switch. But if you have an issue like 2 volts drop between the battery and starter and maybe 1 volt drop on the ground side, you only end up with 9 volts across the solenoid. Step 3 — Disconnect the signal wire to the starter motor Next thing to do is to remove the signal wire from the starter motor.
Sure, you can get it replaced for free where you bought it from when it stops working be sure to save your receipt but what about the hassle of having the starter quit working when you need it then your time to remove it and take it to the store and get a replacement and then reinstall it. While you're there you should also check the fuseable links. Attached is an audio file of what it sounds like. I'm just about to buy a standard 4x2 with the five speed, which supposedly weighs in at 2,497 lbs. But that said, I have the original Denso starter in my 1985 4Runner, it has had the contacts replaced at around 200K miles and now has close to 300K miles on it and it still cranks over at the first turn of the key and it cranks strong.
Now the question I'm asking is does anyone have a extra one lying around or know where I can get one from. Ever since I bought the truck from the previous owner I've always had to give it some gas on cold starts to stay alive, if i started it without doing that it will just die immediately. I had do to do some tucking and shoving to get the starter out, but it was a fairly straight forward task getting it in and out. It's a pair of contacts on the starter motor, mostly likely corroded over the years. If this is your problem, There are a couple of things you can try to get your starter to crank the engine over of this problem happens out on the road and leaves you stranded. This is seen from the right wheel well.
If you have relay, check out out, you can put your hand on the relay and feel if it clicks when the key is turned. It should be a spade connection with the female part of the connection inside an insulated sleeve on the wire. The upper red arrow points at the starter motor and the lower red arrow points at the nut holding the positive cable. And if it is not in that location, simply follow the small wire off the starter solenoid and see where it runs to. You may want to add this info to your already great web site. The contact on the battery side was worn almost all the way through and the motor side visible in the picture was about halfway gone. Sometimes if you remove it and tap it quite hard on a solid surface it will unstick.
If so, pull the codes and fix whatever is wrong. It is usually located on the passenger side fender. Especially if you take it to a local starter repair shop and have them replace all the wear parts and clean and inspect everything while you wait. It is pretty tight to get the starter motor out, but it should be possible to get it out under the truck. What now Have been through 3 startes in two years - just ad another replaced today.
A few times, it has had the problem even after a long trip, when the engine was still hot. If not, better start limbering up your arms. Notice the appearance of the new contacts. Read my previous messages about some details. You will have to look up the… you first remove the engine mounting brackets, then you place a jack under the transmission and remove the cross member bolts that hold the transmission up. Use the correct tools and remove it. Start the engine and then check the pressure.
I found it easier if I bent the bracket that holds the hose for the clutch slave cylinder off to the side, then hang the starter from the upper stud and get that nut started first. This is a small hole so have patience working it back and forth until it comes out. My '86 toyota 4x4 has a a 22re engine. We took this picture on the internet we consider would be one of the most representative pics for 1988 toyota pickup starter relay location. Step 4 — Remove the two bolts holding the starter motor There are two bolts holding the starter motor to the clutch housing, one upper bolt and one lower. Why do we say this? The first thing to try is to see if the small wire on the solenoid is tightly in place.
Before this problem, the truck started great. So, first thing is to disconnect the battery + lead, then squeeze and pull off the small solenoid wire connector and big high current wire from the starter usually a 12 or 14 mm nut. It has had the starting problem for over a year now. This is a temporary solution. My 22R-E equipped 1985 4Runner, had over 210,000 miles on it, and I'll bet the starter is bone stock. This article applies to the Toyota Tundra 2000-Present. Recall all wires have at least two ends, so be sure to follow the wire or cable to its other end and check that end as well.
You want to check the small wire that plugs into the solenoid coil, not the heavy gauge wire direct from the battery that supplies power to the starter motor itself. Finally, hit the connector on the wire from the battery with a wire brush and hook up all the wires and finally the battery. Both stop after about one minute. Remove the filter from the line by backing out the fittings on either end of the filter 14mm wrench. To make sure that you don't have any accidents when working on the starter, disconnect the negative black cable from the battery.
This article applies to the Toyota. The problem seems to happen most when the engine is cold, or after a short trip. Same as A and B. And one tip when checking for bad grounds. I had the battery load tested at a local shop and it is good to go.