But the factory service manual would have all the info you need to safely and correct … ly remove the intake without damaging any of the delicate fuel injection parts. I have looked and all I have on the fender wall are 3 blue single relays and behind the charcoal canister is one orange relay. First disconnect the + side of the battery. Also, any recommendations on a good repair manual would be appreciated. You might need to jack the rear end up to fit underneath the vehicle. If you have power there, the starter solenoid must be out. Pull the relay out, have the key held in start position.
I'm going to have to do this here shortly as i'm getting the tell tale click of the solenoid without the motor spinning once every few days now. Check out the the link I left for a picture. He had a 99 y33 q45 according to his profile. The 10 gage purple goes to the starter if you use a jumper wire and conect the red to the purple the starter should crank. It's located on the crank shaft pully at the front of the engine.
I think I could yoga the starter out by going down and straight back while rotating it, but i'm not certain. But DannyLeDuc said he changed the starter but didn't fix the problem, then his mechanic replaced the relay and fixed the problem. It only shows signal to the starter solenoid directly from the ignition switch. I'm hoping I don't have to do this and I can replace the starter myself this Sunday. They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by or. So I have searched the web and here and everybody says its either on the fender wall of the passenger side or directly behind the charcoal filter on the driver side. Mine was burned by acid from the battery.
I just performed this task. If I lock the doors with the key then the security loight is steadily on, solod red. Then, you can take out the starter by the passenger side engine mount. I've also attempted to jump the car and wasn't able to. If the relay checks are good, check for power on the small wire to starter with key held in start.
There are several relays in there. Really appreciate your input on the subject. It's be called a clutch interlock relay and will be next to the fuel pump relay. If you had the hand and arms of a 5 year old except 18 inches long, you could get at it from the front of the truck behind the front splash guard, due to the inflexible power steering hose. If you have a manual transmission, the start wire from ignition switch goes to the clutch interlock relay and then to the starter.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. California cars like Precise1's and the rest of the crew is the same. Anyway, mine on the driver's side behind the canister; run from the outside in as 1 black, 1 gray, 1 blue and 3 blue ones on the passenger side outside of the box: 2 in front of it and 1 behind with one extra unused relay nearest to the firewall. Genuine Nissan starters, although pricey, are the best way to go. It looks like I may have shorted you on some info. Mine has blue, gray and 1 black relay.
Power directly to the low side of the solenoid should force the starter. If i try to jumper pins 3 and 4 after removing the Theft Warning Relay is there a gauge of wire that's recommended, or what would you recommend? This is one of the most ridiculously complex jobs on this car. I cleaned all the corrosion off the battery and replaced the corroded ground cable, but this didn't help. Push started it and everything was fine. Secure the truck on jack stands.
Does it make a difference my car is from canada? It's quite a process that shouldn't be attempted without the factory service manual. You may need an ignition relay in the process depending on the mew starter. If it proves bad,I would recommend replacing the starter and solenoid as an assembly on this vehicle to a … void additional problems. Moving forward from underneath the A member is in the way. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!! Little things like removing wires from their mount in ackward situation turn into mini projects unto themselves.