Check out our complete for guides to many other procedures. This is a common issue. It's sporadic, lasts for anywhere from 1-10 seconds at a time, and only when the car is in motion. Alternator bolts were 13mm hex, not e-torx. The pump has obviously leaked before before I owned the car and the agents resealed the pump under motorplan instead of replacing the faulty unit Valve Stem seals replaced - the car was smoking excessively on pull away. All aluminum fasteners come in kits for each specific job, and should not be replaced with standard bolts.
My F30 also had false alarm issue but was finally resolved after bringing it up every time during maintenance and recall visits, like 10 or 15? Anyways, the guy says he only has the full alternator so I ask how much. Just finished putting the alternator back in. If it free spins just change out the pulley. Next on the list - Valve stem seals which will hopefully be done on Saturday. What I like to do is pull the front side up first, then wiggle the air filter housing until it comes out of the rear mounts. Do I have to remove the oil filter housing? You can get these pulleys from the dealer but they have to special order them.
If the belt works its way around the crankshaft pulley, it can break through the front main seal and even work its way into the timing belt. Your tensioner is likely faulty, I would replace it. I was thinking whether the water pump is noisy but since it's mechanical it's always spinning so can't just change when warm up accept when the thermostat opens it may drive a bit more? The pulley bolt is 40 Nm. At first they had difficultly replicating the noise even though they also had the video. Can you help me out thanks June 24, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fasteners for the bracket are behind the compressor. Just spoke to dealer and they're looking into my issue. Here is what I found: As soon as I noticed the shredding serpentine belt, I drove home and parked the car.
I have finally given up. Do not remove the refrigerant lines without discharging the refrigerant system first. I then took a trip to town for supper with the family and no issues at all. Wonder what might be causing this Is this trouble? June 6, 2016 Followup from the Pelican Staff: if you suspect the noise is from the belt components, remove the drive belt and briefly start the engine. Assume all other parts are cheap Chinese crap.
Last time I tried it makes the noise after a few minutes of just idling. I have a 2009 135i and today when I was almost 1mile away from the road, the charge warning came on and I lost the power steering, I was in the middle of a 4 lane highway and luckily in 3 mins I was home at which point I saw the shredded belt. Replacing the belt, tensioner, bolt, pulley took me about an hour just putzing around. If it's the water pump he said about 400-500 bucks. This will cause the belt to slip across the pulley surface during belt and alternator speed fluctuations. Now, you should have enough room to work with. Haven't used a drop of oil of 700km of driving yet and no smoking at all Some updated pics of the engine bay after a clean: Oh I have to also mention!!! This style hose lock can be hard to get off due to time and debris entering collar.
I asked my dad to move the belt off the tensioner pulley while I de-tensioned. This style hose lock can be hard to get off due to time and debris entering collar. All of the parts arrived and we installed everything for a second time. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. I think my crankshaft seal gone too.
Will reassemble tomorrow evening and hopefully all is well. Did you replace the belt when doing the tensioners - always do the belt at the same time - assuming its not been done recently. As none of the pulley types are interchangeable, it is very important only to use the pulley type that the vehicle was originally equipped with. The chinese don't give a fig for their own people; do you think they care more for you? Go ahead and replace the compressor. Poor quality is built into their culture.
Then drill and heli-coil the mounting hole. Figure 16 Next you will have to unlock and disconnect the rear boost recirculation hose. Can replicate in park, or when driving slowly in a quiet garage. Well, here's the short version: I took the car in because I was hearing a noise from one of the pulleys, and assumed it was the tensioner but told them I wasn't certain that was the source of the noise. A few weeks ago the car started making a squeaking noise. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. You'll want to pull it out towards the radiator as it's the only way it's coming out but there is enough room.
Took it home by myself and found 1 screw completely missing and the others loose on the power steering pump. November 27, 2016 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. So, I popped the hood and started taking a video. He does private work like he did mine but is a full time mechanic for one of the dealerships. Any suggestions on how to remove the bolt? Why does the fan need to come out? Then pick up where the steps apply to all E90 models.
The car wouldn't replicate the sound at first, but finally it started up and the guy acknowledged that he heard it. As for torques: The aluminum bolt for the tensioner is rough 25 Nm + 90 degree turn. What should the minimum gap be? November 3, 2013 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. Charge pipe did not have to be removed completely, just removed intake, undid the cp mounting bolts, and pushed it out of the way to access alternator bolts. Anyway, we both noticed it, so I took it back to the dealer to have them look at it.